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Russian climber Babanov attempting O2-free Everest summit



Mountaineer Valery Babanov

Kathmandu, April 11: Renowned Russian mountaineer Valery Babanov is aspiring to become the eldest climber to scale Everest without O2 at the age of 59. 

The two-time Piolets d’Or award winner with over 40 years of experience has conquered many formidable mountains in his lifetime. Now, he is aiming to attempt Everest without supplemental oxygen this spring. 

He is attempting this feat with Seven Summit Treks (SST), a leading Kathmandu-based trekking and expedition company. The expedition will take place via South Col, confirmed the SST General Manager Thaneswar Guragai. 

Babanov has achieved many feats in the sector of mountaineering with the ascent of six of 14 peaks above 8,000m, and most daunting mountains, including the Kumbhakarna North-West Ridge, and Kangtega North Face. In 2001, he made the first solo ascent of Meru Central in India. Two years later, he alongside Yuri Koshelenko summited Nuptse East. 

He has won the Piolet d’Or, often referred to as the Oscar Award of Alpinism, twice for making the first ascent of Meru Central in 2001 and pioneering new route up the Nuptse East with Yuri Koshelenko in 2003. 

In 2023, he summited Makalu, the world’s fifth highest mountain, in preparation for Everest. He is currently on his way to climb Lobuche as a training climb for Everest. 

“My Everest Expedition has just begun,” he wrote on social media, “I intend to become the oldest climber to the top of the world without oxygen. I have been preparing for this all my life.”   #nepal