Kathmandu, July 26: Climbing Sagarmatha (Mt Everest), the highest peak of the world, is more than adventure- an exhibition of courage, recognition and way of life.
Since the first ascent to the present, climbing Everest has seen several changes. The availability of various sorts of paraphernalia and advancement in information technology has hugely eased the climbers in recent years.
Irrespective of the things available to make climbing easier, there are inherent risks in each ascent.
In my decades-long career in mountaineering, I involved in various capacities- porter, kitchen body, cook and mountain guide. It was my ascent in 1998 when I was a guide to popular British adventurer Edward Michael Bear Grylls.
Improved weather forecasting
Climbing has come a long way. The weather forecasting of Everest top in 2000 was not as reliable as it is now. So those were the toughest days in terms of getting accustomed to weather. The climbers faced risks for lack of proper weather forecasting. But now, the weather updates have made climber comfortable. Some foreign climbers even descend to the Kathmandu Valley for adequate rest if the adverse weather prolongs for weeks. Once the weather is clear, they begin the Everest tour.
Climbers’ behavior has also changed accordingly. Importantly, the expansion of information and technology has contributed much to communication. Internet service is available at base camp, which helps garner information and updates on Everest and vicinity.
Similarly, other facilities and tools are improved for the convenience during climbing. For example, a kitchen tent is set up in a new design now. The kitchen and dining are standard where carpet flooring is possible. But, we used to collect stones and create walls to prepare a kitchen on ice on those days.
With changing time, the Sagarmatha summiting seems more luxury than adventure. Even the competition is seen on how a modern way of management is ensured. Both Nepali and foreigners are alike in this regard.
It was historic that I scaled the Everest twice this season- on May 18 and 22. Although I was associated with an American Company and a Nepali company, Trek Nepal, for the first of two summits, I was a lone wolf in the second ascent. The last summiting totaled 31st time atop the Everest for this man of 49 from Pangboche of Solukhumbu.
While climbing, adversity befalls us at any moment- once a Hungarian who dared to scale the highest peak without oxygen, suffered much upon reaching the south summit. We had no option but to take him down to camp-two for rescue. We were able to save his life, but we too underwent much affliction.
This season also saw crowds. As the clearing of Khumbu Icefall took time this year, it caused crowds. It was however comparatively very successful and safe climbing this year.
I was always an Everest expedition guide except the 31st summiting. However, I got support from my company and request from the foreign friends. So, it was not a competition for record but a part of profession, a way of life.
Like the Kathmandu Valley, Mt Everest has also seen growing pollution. Considering this, the Everest can be given a rest. It may be equally challenging on the other hand because the mountain and climbing are reliable sources of income to thousands of people.
Doubt over next generation’s involvement
Most of the Sherpas like us are enjoying this profession largely for managing income, which, however, it may not continue as usual in future. When it comes to the generational interest in mountain works, I think my son would not involve in this profession. There is high chance that next generation from the Khumbu region would stay aloof from this job. However, the new generation has come from Makalu region of Sankhuwasabha and other places of Solukhumbu. Even the Rai, Gurung and people from other communities are growing in this profession lately.
As a guide, only thing that concerns me much is how safely the climbers I attend to can be taken atop the peak and descended to the base camp safely. It gives immense happiness. Making successful the mission is ultimate goal.
When climbing becomes a way of life, we are not that interested in counting number of ascents. Since 1995, I scaled the Mt Amadablam certainly for over 50 times. Various peaks of over 8,000 metres are trodden by my feet for over 43 times.
One could wonder whether a climber like me takes rest, but I get itchy feet once the climbing season begins. Like other ardent mountain guides, I believe I can continue climbing till my body favours.
Recognition and friends
Climbing profession also earns international reputation and friends. I was also invited by a fellow climber from the UK to his country in 2022, for I was his guide in summiting the Everest earlier. It was quite pleasing to attend the Kendal Mountain Festival where I got opportunity to meet numerous climbers, including British adventurer Bear Grylls. It was moment of huge honour.
Considering the role Sherpa people have played, the State can take initiative to ensure social security of the concerned Sherpa families. Many other have also made similar demand. (The opinion is prepared based on an interview Sherpa gave to RSS editor, Kumbha Raj Rai).#nepal #rss
